Yokai Walk Notes 1: Kubizuka Daimyojin Shrine

Have you heard of the most vicious and terrible monster? The demon that was based in Mt. Oe and terrorized the capital during the Heian period.

Yes, it's Shuten Doji.

The leader of the demons who now appears in various games and anime is none other than Shuten-doji. Let's take a quick look at the legend.

　

The time is the Heian era, during the reign of Emperor Ichijo. Around the year 1000, the capital of Kyoto was flourishing, but this was only the prosperity of a handful of regents and aristocrats. The world was in turmoil, and the people were terrified by social unrest. In this world, Shuten-doji rebelled against the royal authority and kidnapped the princesses from the capital one after another.

The six men sent to Mt. Oe to rescue the princesses and defeat Shuten-doji were Minamoto no Yorimitsu, Fujiwara no Yasumasa, and the Four Heavenly Kings, Sakata no Kintoki, Watanabe no Tsuna, Tobe no Suetake, and Usui Sadamitsu.

Raiko and his party disguise themselves as mountain ascetics, and on the way they are given "Kamibin Onidokuzake" by the gods of Sumiyoshi, Hachiman, and Kumano, who have taken the form of old men, and are guided by them. Along the way, they encounter a princess washing her blood-stained clothes by the river. The party learns the details of the demon's dwelling from the princess, and arrives at Shuten-doji's mansion.

Shuten-doji warmly welcomes Raikou and his party with blood wine and human flesh, but Raikou and his party get the same wine for the boy and his demon minions, making them drunk, and then they fight back and kill the boy and his demon minions. They rescue the captured princesses, and Raikou and his party head to the capital.

The head of the slain Shuten-doji was brought back to the capital to be displayed on the riverbank as an example to those who rebelled against the royal authority, but on the way there, it suddenly became too heavy to lift at Oinosaka Hill on the border between Tanba and Yamashiro, and so it was buried there.

From the Japanese Oni Exchange Museum

This time, I would like to take you to Kubizuka Daimyojin, the place where this legend ended.

　　

The scariest haunted spot!?

Perhaps because of its achievements as a monster, or because of its name, there are constant rumors of ghosts around Kubizuka Daimyojin Shrine, and on YouTube you can only find videos of ghosts.regretIt is.

When you search on the internet, you will find that there are many sayings such as "If you go alone as a woman, you will be cursed" and "You should not go just for fun." However, the reason why it is dangerous for women to go alone may be due to their location, and none of the shrines are places to go just for fun. In this article,They deny that it is a haunted spot and recommend visiting with the right mindset.(Respect is important!)

Despite such rumors, Kubizuka Daimyojin is a fine shrine. It is said that the shrine's blessing is "cure of illnesses above the neck." Is this because Shuten-doji was beheaded there?

Kubizuka Daimyojin Shrine is about a two-hour train and bus ride away from Kyoto Station.

I first visited about three years ago, and since then I've been going there once every six months.

　　

Entrance to the forest

When you get off at the bus stop "Oinosaka Toge", there is almost no width to walk. There is a lot of traffic, so you have to be careful. I think it is a road surrounded by trees, opened up in the mountains. There is also a cemetery, so I think it is no wonder that there are rumors of ghosts.

　　

As I continued along the road, a small road appeared on my left. Every time I stepped onto this road, a cool breeze enveloped me. The sound of traffic suddenly became distant. The moss-covered guardrails made me feel the loneliness of the area.

As soon as you enter there are ruins of a motel, which probably contributes to the haunting of this area.

If you walk along a similar road, the ground becomes gradually uneven. The pavement is starting to peel off. If you go in the summer, it's cool and the sunlight filtering through the trees is beautiful.

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After walking for a while, houses start to come into view. I try to walk quietly. At the forks in the road, there are helpful signs. I always wonder when these signs were first used. I find it kind of amusing that they are handwritten.

About 15 minutes after getting off the bus, we walked through the mountains where the only sounds we could hear were those of insects and birds, and then it suddenly appeared.

　　

Arrived at Kubizuka Daimyojin Shrine

When the torii gate comes into view, my heart is filled with palpitations and joy. It is so solemn that I think it is a place that should not be visited half-heartedly. I don't want to take it too far into the occult, but none of my friends who accompanied me could pass through the torii gate. I think there is something overwhelming about it.

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I have posted photos of the shrine when it was raining lightly and when the sunlight filtering through the trees was beautiful in summer. After passing through this torii gate and climbing up the stone steps, you will find the main shrine. Several approach paths cross each other on the hill.

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It's not a good idea to post photos of the shrine, so here are the top of the main hall and the tree in front of it that was struck by lightning. I don't know how old it is, but even after being struck by lightning, it still has lush leaves.

I don't offer incense because I'm worried about forest fires, and I always bring high-quality sake with me as an offering. Behind the main hall, there is a place where a head is said to be buried. I pay my respects at the mound, which is surrounded by a fence.

The origin of Shuten-doji's head tomb. The characters carved into the stone monument have not deteriorated much. If you read this, you will immediately understand about Shuten-doji!

Even the traces of rain and lightning strikes add to the beauty of Kubizuka Shrine. Whether it's a light rainy day or a sunny day, the shrine remains unchanged.

Once you have finished paying your respects, head down the mountain and return the way you came.

　　

A walk with monsters until the end

I have visited Kubizuka Daimyojin many times, and no matter how many times I visit, I am still overcome with emotion at its grandeur. I rely on Kubizuka Daimyojin and Shuten Doji quite a bit, reporting on my recent situation and confiding my worries to them.

Believing in monsters can be akin to falling in love, since even small things like the beauty of the sunlight filtering through the trees or the wind stopping can make you happy.

Of course, I don't want you to go there just for fun or to have a look around, but I would like to introduce Kubizuka Daimyojin, which has an otherworldly, yet solemn and awe-inspiring atmosphere. I'm sure it will show you something different.

I would like to emphasize that you should not go there just for fun. This goes for other shrines as well, of course.

I enjoyed riding the bus, thinking about when I would go next.

　　

Image: A picture of Raiko's four heavenly kings defeating the demons of Mt. Oe, photographed by Tsukioka Yoshitoshi and Kido Kai

　　

 ▼Kido Kai: He admired Shuten Doji. 
Works written: "Kitai", "Yuuu", "Oeyama Sake Dojiden", "Introduction to Juvenile Studies"  
site:note.com/jyaibotenor